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A TRIP TO THE 

PACIFIC COAST 

BY AUTOMOBILE 
ACROSS THE CONTINENT 



CAMPING ON THE WAY 



liy 
William Charles Bettis ^ 



C© P M Q, 






CO 1-Y RIGHT, 1'122 

BY 

WILLIAM CHARLES BETTIS 



ALL RIGHTS RESERVED 



MAR I3IB22 



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IV, 



4 



A Trip to the Pacific Coast 
by Automobile 

Camping on the Way 

E^VERY motorist with rich red 
-^ blood flowing through his veins, 
when he has a few iiours to spare, 
^ heads for the countiy. The great 
open stretclies of field ; the soothing 
murmur of breezes passing through 
God's Temples — the woods; the 
gleaming stream and expansive 
lake; all bathed in golden sunshine, 
appeals to the primitive in man, as 
notiiing else can do. 

He is eternally seeking out new 
roads. Places he has never before 
seen, because the spirit of adven- 
ture predominates and down deep 
in his innermost heart he dreams 
of some dav starting for the great 
"Golden West." 

Everyone is familiar with the 
slogan "See America First." Let me 
add : See our great northwest and 
see it from an automobile if possi- 
ble. If not, see it from the platform 
of an observation car. 

Tliere is notiiing in Europe so 
impressive as our "Wonderland of 
the World." 

The odd, startling, beautiful 
things you can see in our National 
Parks, Yellowstone, Glacier, Mount 
Rainier. Yosemite, the Grand Can- 
yon of Arizona, and the splendid 
Forest Reserves, cannot be dupli- 
cated anywhere in the world. 




AMONr: THE YKLLOW PINES 



FOR two years, the 
\v rite r, contem- 
plating a trip to the 
Pacific Coast by motor, 
camping on the way, 
used every means at 
his command to secure 
authentic, truthful in- 
formation covering 
roadconditions, 
grades, c a m p i n g 
grounds, etc.. but with- 
out success. So, real- 
izing that thousands 
of motorists who are 
p 1 a n n i n g the trip 
would like to know tlie 
truth of these things 
before starting, I have 
with the collaboration 
of Mrs. Bettis, made 
note of them, and hope 
tlie experience herein 
set forth will prove of 
great intei'fest and as- 
sistance to all who are 
anticipating the tour. 

Before going into 

the details, I wish to 

state positively, that 

any average driver, 

' whether man or w6- 

vARiED ARE THE SCENES AS YOU TRAVEL ALONG man, should not fear 

that they will be unable to pilot their car from coast to coast. 

Of course there are all kinds of roads, good, bad and indifferent; you 
find those conditions everywhere, but on this trip I am glad to say, there 
is much more good than bad road. 

There was an enormous amount of construction taking place in 1921, 
and that necessitated a great number of detours, but the summer of 1922 
will find these stretches of new road open to traffic. If you stay on the 
main highways there is no danger of losing your way, because they are 
carefully marked. Even tlie detours are carded at every turn. Don't let 
mountains freighten you ; as a rule, mountain roads are good and absolutely 
safe. True, there are exceptions, but if you use care and good judgment 
you need have no fear. After you have become accustomed to mountain 
driving, you will enjoy scaling the dizzy heights and gliding down tlie 
opposite side, but don't depend on the brakes to hold you back, go down on 
compression ; start out in first if in doubt, and then slip into second if the 




lull is not too steep, otherwise you will burn out the brake linings and no 
telling' what may happen. 

Another thing 1 want to caution the novice about: When you are new 
at the game of mountain driving, and negotiating a road that is a mere 
shelf; a sheer wall hundreds of feet high on one side, and a drop of hun- 
dreds of feet on the other, DON'T LOOK DOWN. Keep your eyes glued 
to the road. LOOK STKAIGHT AHEAD. 

Many motorists have told me they would like to make the trip but 
were afraid of mechanical troubles, breakage, etc. That should not deter 
anyone, as there are garages every few miles, and parts for most American 
cars can be had at a few hours' notice. Again, if a fellow should have 
trouble that he could not handle, he would have plenty of help in a few 
minutes, and a tow to the next town if necessary. There are tire, gasoline 
and oil service stations everywhere ; even out in the country along the high- 
ways. JVIany people carry an extra supply of gas, oil and water, but I do 
not consider it necessary. It is just as cheap to travel with a full tank of 
gas as a partially filled one, so stop often and fill the tank, and put in oil 
and water. 

Many women make the trip without a man in the party. Changing 
tires, taking care of the motor, and putting up and tearing down camp. If 
you would like a summer of rare enjoyment, get proper equipment and 
start for the west. You will never regret it. 




'i-'-^' 










A SHELF F{0AU 



EQUIPMENT 

Proper equipment is a very necessary adjunct to a trip of this kind, 
and if you want to travel in comfort mentally and physically, I suggest the 
following: See tiiat your motor and all mechanical and working parts of 
the car are in perfect condition and tlioroughly oiled and greased. Have 
all tires in first-class condition, and carry at least two extras on rims and 
inflated. Two good inner tubes, carefully wrapped so they will not chafe, 
some patches and cement, and several inner and outer boots. You may 
never need the extra tubes, patches and boots, but it is safer to have them, 
i^'or example: On one of the worst pieces of road I found on the entire 
trip, high up on a mountain plateau, twenty miles to the next town, a rear 
tire blew out, and while I was changing that, a front one went down due to 
puncture. This necessitated the use of both my extras. Fortunately I had 
no further trouble covering the twenty miles, and arrived in Superior, 
Montana, about four-thirty in the afternoon. This is a very small place, 
and as there was no tire large enough for my car in the town, the dealer 
wired Spokane, one hundred and fifty miles west, for one. Although it was 
after five o'clock when the telegram was sent, the casing and inner tube 
was on the station platform at four o'clock in the morning. So you see 
there is not much danger of delay on the road. Be sure your tool box has 
a full supply of wrenches, files, a hammer, pair of pliers, different sizes of 
bolts, nuts and cotter pins, a roll of tape, a spool of soft iron wire, an 
extra piece of electric, and all the odds and ends that careful drivers 
always have on hand for emergencies. A good pump, two jacks, a can of 
grease and a set of chains with extra cross chains and links and a steel 
cable for towing. Don't neglect any of these things, they may be needed 
at any time. I did not have my chains out of the bag the whole trip; how- 
ever that was just good fortune. 

Before you start get a piece of 4 x 4 ten inches long, bore a hole in one 
end and pass a rope through for a handle, and have this ready to block a 
wheel if you should have to stop on a grade and get out of your seat. Tiiis 
is very important as there are many places you will be unable to find a rock 
or stick for that puiiwse, if you sliould need one. Be sure to keep your 
brakes in perfect condition and working order, but don't depend on the 
emergency brake to liold tlie car on a steep grade — something might 
happen. 

Clothing and camping equipment are of utmost importance, and should 
be selected with great care. Our ignorance regarding those things at tl-tf 
beginning of the trip, caused us a great deal of annoyance and trouble. 
We started with at least three times as much clothing and camp equipment 
as we needed, and had to ship some of it by freight to the coast. 

In tlie first place, don't take fine clothes, you won't need them. Even 
if you do want to stop at a iiotel occasionally, or drop into a high-class cafe 
for dinner, you will find a lot of other tourists dressed as you should be — 
in khaki. Kiiaki shirts and trousers. You say, "what do the women wear?" 
The same tiling, of course. Nearly all the ladies dress in khaki shirts and 
trousers, and you see them on th streets of every western town and city 
during the toui'ing season. Take as little clothing as possible to keep clean 
and comfortable and remember this, there are camping places provided by 
nearly every town and hamlet west of Chicago, and many are equipped with 



a laundry, shower baths, and kitchen. So it is an easy matter to keep 
enough linen clean for comfort. 

In the selection of camp e(iuipment, two tilings should be kept in mind 
— space and weight. Select tlie things that will pack into the smallest 
space and at the same time weigh the least. Cups, plates, kettles, coffee 
pot, and skillets with folding handles; all of which nest together in a small 
package, are the best. Build a cupboard about three feet high and three 
wide, the depth of the foot board. Put in shelves and compartments, and 
enclose with a drop door, and bolt to the foot board, and you have a good 
pantry and table combined. This should be carefully made and the whole 
tiling covered with a water-proof and dust-proof bag while on the road. 

In selecting a tent remember this. Can- 
vas is bulky and heavy. Some is water-proof, 
some is not. \Miite canvas lets light through, 
and if you are camped near street or park 
lights may prevent you getting a good night's 
rest — and that is very essential while tour- 
ing. In my opinion khaki is by far the best. 
Get a very light grade, and one that is guar- 
anteed water-proof. There are many styles 
of tourists' tents offered the motorist, the 
prices of which range from $25.00 up. Beds 
and bedding are also of utmost importance. 
Some people prefer sleeping on the gi-ound 
and use a blanket or air mattress, many use 
folding cots, but the most elaborate outfit I 
have seen is a double deck Pullman berth 
arrangement manufactured by F. 0. Berg 
Co., Spokane, Wash., 

I want you to profit by my mistakes, 
therefore I am going into considerable detail pals 

regarding equipment, that in my opinion willgive you the most comfort for 
the least work. 

Before starting on this trip, I had had constructed to my order, a 
big, heavy, very elaborate, two-wheel ti'ailer with two full sized bed 
springs that opened out over each side, and a kitchen, pantry, refrigerator 
and tool compartment. In addition to all this, we carried mattresses, linens, 
blankets, rugs, cooking utensils, groceries, ice, a folding table, two folding- 
cots, six camp chairs, a knock-down wood stove, a gasoline stove and a lot of 
tools, a heavy canvas tent, 12 x 14 feet, a fly 12 x 16 feet, a big ground 
cloth, and many yards of mosquito netting. The whole thing weighed 
about 1,500 pounds; and I intended to tow that to the coast. 

It was a dandy outfit, no doubt about that, and comfortable too; but 
at St. Paul I put it in storage and had a side tent made to take its place. 
This tent was 7x9 feet, rear wall 3 feet high, the other end fitted to the 
car — which was a closed one. The roof extended over the top of the car 
and down on the opposite side far enough to cover the windows. This job 
was snake and insect proof. By that I mean the floor was sewed in and 
came up over the mud guards and foot board of the car on the tent side. 
We used cots and felt absolutely safe at night. But a sewed-in floor has its 
disadvantages, the worst of which is to keep it clean. 




If you want a snake-proof tent, have a sod cloth sewed all around tlie 
bottom and use a loose ground clotli, then you can have it laundried. 

When we arrived in Spokane and I saw the Pullman berth tent 
made by the Berg Company. I purchased one and we used it for the 
remainder of the trip. 

This outfit is very complete. All the canvas including the berths, and 
the jointed poles, pack securely in a box 12x12x48 inches, and can be 
carried on the foot board of the car. The box which is equipped with fold- 
ing legs can then be used as a table. 

I want you to profit by this experience also. 

We had lots of wool blankets to sleep on, and cover with, and got along 
nicely till we entered South Dakota. There the nights began to get quite 
cool, and the furtlier west we went, each succeeding night, due to the ever- 
increasing altitude, was colder. We purcliased more blankets, but could 
not keep warm. We look back upon our nights on the heights of Yellow- 
stone Park with liorror. We went to bed with our clothes and shoes on and 
still suffered from the cold so much tliat we had to get up and go out and 
build a bonfire to get warm. 

One day in desperation I told an old mountain traveler our troubles and 
asked him if he was cold at night. He said "no, I am always perfectly com- 
fortable." Then lie asked me what we slept on, and wiien I told him cots, 

with blankets under and 
over us, lie laughed, and re- 
plied, "you can't sleep warm 
tliat way, try sleeping on 
the ground as I do, or if you 
must liave a cot, get a pad 
of eiderdown, or one com- 
posed of sheep's hide, paper 
and wool ; the trouble is you 
get cold from underneath." 
And he was right. I am sure 
he laughed at me for being- 
such a tenderfoot. 

If you decide to take 
the trip, and I hope you will, because 1 know you will geta lot of enjoyment 
and good health out of it, START RIGHT. 




ALLEN CAR AND TRAILER 





THE TRIP 

We began our long trip 
to the Pacific Coast at To- 
ledo, Ohio, on the morning 
of May 15th, 1921. 

I drove a big roomy, 
seven- passenger 1919 
Willys-Knight sedan, which 
had a record of only 8,256 
miles — not enough to break 
in a Knight motor. My son 
at tlie wheel of a little Allen 
pulled tlie trailer. We stopped at a gas station and had the tanks filled at 
25c per gallon, and headed out Bancroft street for the Golden West. 

We passed tlirough Bryan and Kendall ville and just before entering 
iMishawaka saw a sign by the side of the road reading FREE CAMPING 
GROUND at Pottawatomie Park. We made inquiry at Mishawaka and were 
told tlie park was just a short distance west, and that it belonged to South 
Bend, Indiana. We located it without any trouble and drove into a beautiful 
grove and found every facility for campers, including water, stoves and 
fii'e wood. This was our first camp, and it took only a few minutes to turn 
the trailer into a place of abode, and when that was accomplished it cer- 
tainly was comfortable. We started a wood fire and broiled a nice juicy 
steak. Living out-of-doors! \\'e had heard a great deal, and read much 
about it, but this was our first experience. That evening after dinner, we 
had a caller. A fine big Airdale came into camp and made himself at home. 
We stayed here several days and tried to find the owner of the dog, with- 
out success, so when we headed west again, liad a new member in the 
family. Gasoline in Mishawaka was 22V-2C per gallon. 

Our next stop was at LaPorte, Ind., where we camped for several days 
in their beautiful City Park. 

From LaPorte we went to Deep River, a fishing resort about six miles 
south of Gary, Ind. Here we found a fine natural grove only partially 
equipped for campers, and as it was a privately owned and operated resort, 
were charged $2.00 for a week's stay and fishing. Fishing, lots of it, but 
no fish. They told us we were "two days late." That up to that time fish- 
ing had been good. Of course we did not doubt it, and left there in hopes 
of finding a place somewhere in tlie land of the "setting sun" where we 
would not be — "two days late." 

I forgot to mention that there were plenty of snakes at Deep River 
camping ground, and I am sure there is no one in the world more afraid of 
them, so I was not sorry to leave. 

Hammond, Ind., was our next stop, and we furnished the natives con- 
siderable amusement when we asked for a place to camp. However, I 
called up Mayor Brown and asked permission to camp in Water Works 
Park on Lake Michigan, and was allowed to do so. 

This was a dandy place, with a fine bathing beach and good fishing. 

The roads so far have been very good. Gasoline now 22.6c. 

At South Bend I mailed a letter to the Park Commissioners of Chicago, 




CAMP AT HAMMOND, IND, 



inclosing a self - addressed 
stamped envelope, asking if 
they had a camping place 
for tourists. Evidently the 
whole thing was thrown 
into the waste basket, as I 
never received a reply; 
therefore several merchants 
missed getting about one 
luindred dollars of my 
money. Of course, that is 
not much to Chicago mer- 
chants, but if tourists — and 
there are many thousands 
on the road every year — were treated with a little courtesy and provided 
with a place to camp, in the aggregate the amount of money spent by them 
in one season would make a handsome sum — even in Chicago. 

1 wonder why the cities east of Chicago liave not awakened to the 
possibilities of increasing their trade by holding out the inducement of a 
place to camp for a few days, as have the towns and cities west of that 
meti'opolis. 

Nearly every town and liamlet of the west has a park to accommodate 
automobile tourists who have a camping outfit, and nowadays nearly 
every tourist car carries one. 

1 have seen a hundred or more cars in a single camp, and every car 
carried an average of four passengers. These people have to be fed, they 
buy more or less of all the necessities of life; then there are tires, and the 
gasoline and oil that every car must have. All this means a lot of money 
spent along the route. 

While most camp grounds are operated by the municipalities where 
they are located, there are quite a large number of privately owned and 
operated grounds also. 

As a rule all municipal grounds are free to tourists. Privately owned 
parks charge 25c or 50c per day. 

There is one park in California that was operated b.\' the Chamber of 
Commerce this summer that made over i?8,000.00 profit; and they charged 
only a nominal admission fee. So you see the possibilities are practically 
unlimited. 

A few of the parks we visited this summer were brand new and a little 
crude. Next year those same camping grounds will blossom forth with 
everything modern, including iiot and cold shower baths, laundries and 
kitchens. 

Many of the western camp grounds liave kitchens equipped with elec- 
tric stoves, and laundries with electric irons. 

After several very pleasant days at Hammond, we started on a beauti- 
ful morning for Milwaukee. It is a very short distance from Hammond to 
the outskirts of Chicago. We had been told to avoid the Boulevards and 
Parks because of the trailer, so we skirted Jackson Park, but took a chance 
at Michigan Avenue. Policemen said nothing, so on down through the 




TYPICAL SCENES ALONG THE NATIONAL PARKS HIGHWAY 




heart of the city we went on this noted thoroughfare, crossed the river and 
passed directly through Lincohi Park to Sheridan Road. 

The road from Chicago to Milwaukee is fair. There were a few bad 
stretches, and one one of these we had tlie misfortune to break the tongue 
of the trailer. Tlie nearest town was about four miles, so we went to a 
farm house and asked the owner if he had a piece of timber suitable for our 
purpose. He found just wliat we wanted and charged us only fifty cents 
for it. We had to unload everything carried on the trailer. The dust in 
the road was very deep, and the thermometer stood at 90 degrees in the 
shade; so it was some job to remove the broken tongue, fit and put in 
place the new one, and reload the trailer: but it was completed in three 

hours and we were on oui' 
way again. By this time it 
was nearly sundown, so we 
decided to find a suitabb 
place and camp for the 
night. We drove into a big 
field and put the tent up 
on the shore of a small 
stream, had a good dinner, 
caught a mess of fish for 
breakfast, and went to bed 
— but not to sleep — because 
the farmer that owned that 
field, although he charged 
us a dollar for the privilege 
of camping there, turned a 
big drove of cattle loose in 
it. Cows are curious ani- 
mals, and they wanted to 
know all about this Strange 
affair on their private pre- 
serve, so they started an 
investigation. Two of them 
began to fight over a pan of 
potato pealings that had 
been carelessly left outside, 
got tangled up in the guy 
ropes, and nearly tore the 
MARYsviLLE. CALIFORNIA j-g^t down before we could 

chase them away. We had to stand guard nearly all night to protect 
our property. However those were eastern cattle and, from a story 
told me a few weeks later by a tourist on his way east, I have come to 
the conclusion they are not as courteous as the western members of their 
family. This man said, "he camped on the open prairie one night, and 
when he woke up in the morning there were hundreds of cattle all around. 
They had formed a circle of which lie was the center, and all stood per- 
fectly still, watching him." He said, "his hair stood up for a moment, but 
when he got on liis feet they moved away quietly and did not try to molest 
him." My advice to the camping tourist is, keep out of pastures. 



THE MILWAUKEE RIVER 




The following morning- we continued our journey to Milwaukee, passing 
through W'uukegan, Kenosha and Racine, arriving there early in the after- 
noon. 1 called at the office of the Yellowstone Trail located in the Dykeman 
Hotel lobby for information regarding the road to St. Paul and Minneap- 
olis, and receiving very courteous ti'eatment and was presented with maps 
carefully marked showing all detours. There is no chai'ge for this service 
in any Yellowstone or National Parks Highway office. 

After lunch we started for Fond du Lac a distance of sixty-five miles. 
Roads were fair and we made good time. Stopped at one small place for 
gasoline and paid 25c per gallon, whereas we could have secured it in Mil- 
waukee for 22c or Fond du Lac at 20. 6c. It pays to watch your supply, and 
fill the tank in the larger towns. 

We arrived in Fond du Lac earl\- in the evening, drove out to Lakeside 
Park located on the shore of Lake \\'iiniebago, and were delighted with 
what we found. 

A beautiful place with a fine bathing beach, and every convenience for 
campers, even to free fire wood. 

We put our tent up within ten feet of a rock retaining wall protecting 
the channel, and sat on our own front porch and caught all the fish we 
wanted. 

All things considered, this was one of the nicest camps we found on the 
whole trip, and Mayor Henzie called and shook hands with all the tourists 
with true western hospitality. 

But time was pressing, and after three delightful days, we pulled up 
stakes and started for Stephens Point our next camp. 

We passed through Oshkosh but missed Appleton by taking a short 
cut across country to Fremont, over good roads to Wapaca, and on to 
Stephens Point where we arrived early in the evening. The camp in this 
town is in the fair grounds just as you enter the city from the east. It was 
a good place to stop over night, but no one would care to stay longer. 

Early the following morning we were away for Chippewa Falls. This 
city has a delightful camp ground in big, beautiful Irvine Park. Wonderful 
trees, velvety grass, kitchen with range and plenty of wood, but no laundry 
or shower baths. There is a large zoo also that appeals to most adults and 
all children. Don't fail to stop at Chippewa Falls. 

From there we drove to Eau Claire over a cement road. This city has 
a fine camp sight and is 
only thirteen miles from 
Chippewa Falls. 

From Eau Claire to 
Hudson, the road, passing 
through Menomonie, Knapp 
and Wilson was bad — very 
bad, due partially to the 
lack of rain. The surface 
was ground to a fine powder 
that in places was six to 
eight inches deep. There 
were many cars going and 
coming, and every one was fond du lac, Wisconsin 



L 


14 



doing its best to scatter the road over the adjacent fields. The air was 
filled witli dust. The wliole day from tlie time we left Eau Claire had been 
a most disagreeable one. Tlie road had led over a succession of sharp, steep 
hills, deep with dust and loose gravel, and we were very tired when we 
passed througli tlie little town of ^^'ilson where they have a good camp 
ground, and should have stopped there ; but as we had been informed that 
Hudson, thirty-one miles farther west had a better one, we decided to gj) 
througli even as late as it was. On the way to Hudson we had tire trouble, 
and it was about ten thirty when we drove down the main street looking 
for someone to direct us to the camp. The night was very dark and the 
spot light was burning as we entered the town. We had not proceeded far, 
when a man in citizen's dress run out in front of us, and, flashing a big 
badge yelled, "Hey! what are you doing with that spot light, don't you 
know it is against the law in this state and Minnesota to burn a spot light?" 
Well, 1 saw we were up against it, so in a joking way I said: "Why, 
Marshal, we were using it to find you. We are lost and trying to locate 
your auto tourists' camp ground." Well, he was a good chap, and instead 
of making an arrest, smiled, and told us how to find the park, adding, "if 
you can't locate it, come back and I will go with you." We followed his 
directions, and were soon climbing a precipitous grade. Up. up through the 
dark we went, the head and spot lights revealing a wall on one side and a 
dangerous drop on the other. Just a narrow road, twisting and turning, 
always upward, till we finally found a plateau on the very top of Prospect 
Hill, with the city lights twinkling far below us. We stopped witli a sigh of 
relief, and swung the spot light around to find the water supply and a place 
to put up the camp. All the light revealed was a big sign that read 
"NO CAMPING HERE." No water or other camping facilities anywhere 
in sight. So, tired, hungry, and indescribably dirty after that dreadful day, 
without a chance of washing, or supper, we laid down on the grass and 
gave up. 

At the first touch of dawn in the east, we got up and looked around. 
There, spread at our feet was not only the city of Hudson, but a beautiful 

stretch of water, the St. Croix. As we 
were not accustomed to viewing the coun- 
try from really high hills or mountains, it 
was delightful. But as we look back upon 
it now, after having crossed the Rockies 
and the Cascades, this scene pales into 
insignificance. 

As soon at it was light enough to 
make the turns in the road with safety, we 
descended from this beautiful if inhos- 
pitable place and started for St. Paul. 

Before proceeding further, let me say 
that a camping tourist should have his 
camp up and supper over before dark. If 
we had stopped at Wilson, we could have 
had a bath, supper and a good night's rest. 

We passed through the town and 
entered upon a bridge that spans the St. 

BROILING A STEAK 





Croix, and just before we 
reached tlie west end crossed 
the state line into Minnesota. 
Til is is one of those antedelu- 
vian things — a toll bridge, and 
with one exception the only 
one we found on the entire 
trip, although we had to use 
thi'ee ferries, two of which 
charged for passage — the 
other one was free. 

The road fi'om Hudson 
to St. Paul was as a rule good. wash day in camp 

There were a few bad places, but probably l)y the summer of 1922 these 
poor stretches will be eliminated. 

►St. Paul has a splendid camp ground on Cherokee Heights in a new 
pai'k just a few blocks from the west end of High Bridge. 

Although this was the first year, it was equipped with hot and cold 
shower baths, a kitchen with range and plenty of fire wood ; and next sum- 
mer they intend to add a complete laundry. This ground attracts a great 
many campers, and I predict it will have to be enlarged if they continue to 
treat visitors as nice as they did this year. 

One of the finest bands of the city came out one evening while we 
were there and rendered a concert foi' the campers and people living in that 
part of the city. And it was some concert. Furthermore every attention 
and consideration was shown visitors from other cities by two gentlemen, 
Mr. Geo. A. Doran and Mr. Henry J. Hadlick, who through civic pride, and 
not for money, devote their evenings telling tourists about the best routes 
and the things of interest in and around St. Paul. 

Mr. Lee Whelock is in charge of this park, and is on duty all day and 
a good share of the night, and does everything in his power to make it 
pleasant for tourists. 

Spend at least one night on these grounds. You will be more than 
pleased. And remember this, "St. Paul Serves." 

Up to this point my son, driving his own car and pulling the trailer had 
been a member of the party. Owing to ill health he decided to return east, 
so we put the trailer in storage, shipped all excess clothing by freight to 
Spokane, and continued the trip with a new tent, cots and clothing loaded 
on the big sedan. 

Thus far the route has been through wonderful farming country and 
prosperous towns. Camp sights have been within easy drives each day, 
and absolutely nothing to bother even the most inexperienced motorist. 
Now we are meeting tourists who have come through from tlie Pacific 
Coast, and of course we talk to as many as we can in an effort to secure 
really authentic information regarding roads, especially through the moun- 
tains. We hear all sorts of stories. Many of them make you feel it would 
be wise to turn around and go back. I had several tell me I would never 
get over the mountains with my big car and that the I'oads were terrible. 
Some grades tipped over backward to hear them tell it. I admit they had 
me worried, but when 1 said, "well, you came through, and other cars, lots 



of them, are coming and going all tlie time, aren't they?" They reluctantly 
admitted that such was the case, and added; "well, you may make it." 

After ten deliglitful days in St. Paul we said good-bye to a lot of nice 
friends we had made, among them Mr. and Mrs. Doran, Mr. and Mrs. 
Hadlick and Mr. and Mrs. Sherman, and drove over to Minneapolis. This 
city also maintains a good camping ground, and you should spend a day or 
two there before starting west. 

Westwood, Ho! I have always had it in mind that Minneapolis was the 
jumping off place for tourists westward bound over the northern trail, 
and from my view-point I was right. 

1^'rom this city you have the choice of two trails. The National Parks 
Highway leading through St. Cloud, Alexandria, Fergus Falls, Fargo, Bis- 
mark and a lot of other interesting places, or the Yellowstone Trail a little 
to the south which passes through Montevideo, Aberdeen and Mobridge. 
Botli of these trails converge at Fallon, Montana, then use the same high- 
wny all the way to Spokane, Washington, passing through Miles City, Bill- 
ings, Livingston, Bozeman, Butte, Missoula, Mullan, Wallace and Coeur 
d' Alene. 

For no particular reason, we chose tlie Yellowstone route. We left 
Minneapolis about six o'clock in tlie evening, and drove to Glenco, a distance 
of tifty-two miles. Tiiis town, although a small one, lias two camping 
grounds. One, quite a way out, we were unable to locate in the dark, so we 
drove back to the town and put up our tent for the night. This was a 
dandy place, and in the morning while we were at breakfast, one of the 
ladies of the village called and presented us with a mess of nice butter 
beans. Western hospitality. We have come in contact with it, more and 
more as we penetrate the "wild and wooley" west. How amusing tliat is 
to us now. Many eastern people are still under the impression that western 
people are rough, and carry guns that they are apt to use at the least provo- 
cation. How ridiculous. It is a serious otfense to carry a gun "out west," 





THE PROPER WAY TO DRES.S 




and from the time we start- 
ed on this trip we never saw 
a gun "on the hip" of any- 
one till we were down in 
Old Mexico. There we saw 
plenty of them. 

We made two more 
camps in Minnesota, one at 
Montevideo tJiat night and 
at Ortonville the following 
night. 

The roads through the 
entire state were splendid. a good mountain road 

Leaving Ortonville we passed almost immediately into South Dakota, 
and the first forty miles of road we encountered, while not bad, was not to 
be compared with those in Minnesota, but from there to within three miles 
of Aberdeen they were fine. 

Now we are on the prairie. From the time we entered South Dakota 
the trees have become more scarce, the only ones there ai'e, were planted 
by the early settlers. There are no fruit trees. At Aberdeen is a little 
park that was planted with trees forty years ago. They are still small and 
precious, but the city has turned this park over to the tourists. 

P'rom Aberdeen to Mobridge the road was good. This town is located 
on the Missouri river. They have a camp ground but no shade, and as the 
day was terribly hot we decided to keep on going. 

There is no bridge at this point, so we crossed by ferry. The charge 
is $1.00 for a car, and 10c for each passenger. 

About two blocks from the ferry landing on the west bank, is a very 
good camping place in a natural grove. 

Motorists will save money by having tanks filled in Mobridge as the 
price takes a jump immediately after crossing the river. 

Look out for alkali water from the time you enter the Dakotas. Don't 
drink it. Don't put in your radiator. There is plenty of good water to be 
had in nearly every town, if you make inquiry. 

We are now on Standing Rock Indian Reservation, and while we were 
putting up the tent received a call from an old Sioux warrior, who, with 
many grunts and smiles, seemed to approve of our mode of living. 

The distance from the ferry to the next town, McLaughlin, is thirty- 
eight miles over rolling prairie. This was one of the finest roads we 
encountered on the whole trip, and it held to within five miles of Lemmon, 
but from that point to some distance west it was a disgrace to the trail. 

The days were very hot, but the nights cool. Almost no shade on 
camp grounds. We put the tent up after sundown and get an early start 
in the morning to avoid the heat of the day. 

About six miles east of Marmarth we entered the Bad Lands. From 
what we had heard, we were prepared for startling sights, and were dis- 
appointed. There are a number of curious fomiations worth seeing, but 
the really wonderful views are not on the Yellowstone but on the National 
Parks Highway to the north. The road througli the Bad Lands was good. 



-17- 




but some of the worst we 
bad encountered so far was 
from Marmarth to Isniay. 
There were phices on liills 
til at were extremely dan- 
gerous. 

That night we camped 
at Ismay. Leaving- there 
about ten thirty in the 
morning, we crossed a num- 
ber of very bad hills, and 
had just passed through the 
THE WRECK little town of Mildren, when 

we came in sight of a deep fill with a high hill just beyond, and an auto- 
mobile upside down at the foot of the fill. 

As soon as I could find a safe place to stop, I rushed forward to help 
the unfortunates, and found they were people we had met in several camps. 
A high school teacher from Indiana, his wife and daughter, and they were 
not seriously hurt. Wonderful! Providential! The car had just been 
laid up two days for repairs, but the brakes had been neglected. He 
attempted to make this steep curving hill on high, and when half way up 
stalled the motor. The brakes failed to hold, and the car began to back 
down the hill. When it came to the deep fill it plunged over the side, 
turned a somersault and landed upside-down. The wife jumped as the car 
left the road, but father and daughter went with it and w ere buried unfler 
the wreckage. By the time I arrived the wife had managed to free them. 
It is surprising how soon a crowd will gather even away out on the prairies 
or mountains. It was not very long till there were men enough, with the 
help of a team to turn that car over, snake it out of the ravine and put it on 
the road again. It was in such a dreadful condition I had hoped he would 
abandon it; but two days later he drove into camp, sans windshield, sans 
top, and as hopeful as ever. 

The cost of living up here in this part of the world is considerable 
higher than five or six hundred miles east, due to the fact that nearly 
everything has to be shipped in. We are now paying 33c for gasoline and 
$1.50 per gallon for oil. 

The following day, due to stops at Fallon and i\Iiles City for mail, it 
was about dark when we drove into the very small village of Hathaway and 
were invited to camp in the front yard of one of the residents. They were 
very nice to us and we had a pleasant evening with them. Everything was 
lovely till they mentioned the fact there were rattlesnakes around there. 
1 will tell you I was mighty glad we had a snake-proof tent that night. The 
next morning I went into the only store in the place, and the clerk was 
walking around carefully, looking back of boxes and barrels. When I asked 
him what he was looking for, he replied, "I opened the door leading into the 
back room this morning, and found a big snake, so I am looking for its 
mate." Tliat was enough for me, so we immediately "hit the trail" for 
Billings. 

Roads through this part of the state were fairly good in some spots 
and very bad in others. i\Iuch new work was being done, therefore there 
were a number of detours. 



Billings, Montana. What a relief to drive into this nice, thriving 
western city, and secure a first class meal. We have had considerable hard- 
ship for some days past. Some of the road was terrible. The weather 
during the day was very hot, and at night very cold, and as they seldom 
have rain in this part of the country there was plenty of dust. 

We expected to see many animals on this trip, but with the exception 
of a few prairie dogs, a large number of gophers and jack rabbits, and 
some snakes, we have been disappointed. We did see hundreds of dead 
jack rabbits and gophers in the road. They are a great menace to the 
farmers and ranchmen, and they kill as many as possible, and leave them 
lying for the eagles and buzzards to feast on. 

We were told there were many rattlesnakes in this part of the country. 
A garage m'an in Mildred said a posse went out of that town a few days 
befoi'e and killed two hundred and fifty. Another garage man said he had 
killed one that day, and proved it by showing the rattles. But how is this 
for a snake story: A gentleman told me he employed a man with a car to 
take him into the back country a couple of years ago, and on the way 
noticed a streak of dust arising just ahead of the automobile, but nothing 
in sight to cause it. He called the attention of the driver to it and was told 
it was a drove of migrating rattlesnakes crossing the road. Like myself, 
this man was very much afraid of snakes, and asked the driver what he was 
going to do about it. "I will show you," he replied, and with that he drove 
through and over the mass. He said, "The wheels slid and the car skidded, 
snakes hissed and struck blindly at the wheels and fenders and that his 
hair stood straight up." Maybe so. Perhaps he was joking, but on the 
whole trip we did not see one rattlesnake. At Fallon we had our first 
glimpse of the Yellowstone River, and followed it to a considerable extent 
all the way to Livingston, and as part of the country is irrigated have seen 
a few trees and have been able to buy a little green stuff to eat. 

Just before arriving in Billings, we passed through a small town, on the 
most prominent corner of which was a sign reading: "Speed limit, 101 
miles per hour. Free air if you pump it yourself." I will not mention the 
name of the town, for fear every fellow that reads this will not only break 
their traffic law and be arrested, but wreck his car as well, because the 
road was built for not more than 10 miles per hour at the most. 

At Laurel, fifteen miles west of Billings, we had our first glimpse of a 
snow-capped peak. This mountain is a part of the Bear Tooth range, and 
the highest in the state of Montana, and we were told was about fifty 
miles away. 

That night we camped on a very nice ground at Big Timber, with the 
Crazy Mountains for a background. 

The following day we drove into Livingston, another one of the strictly 
modern, practically new western cities. 

We had looked forward to our arrival in Livingstone with considei'able 
pleasure, and were not disappointed. It is not only a thriving beautiful 
little city that stands in a valley surrounded on every side with towering 
mountains, but is the gateway to the only natural entrance to that 
"Wonderland of the World," Yellowstone Park. 

We arrived in Livingston about noon on a Saturday, and aftei- a 
splendid dinner at one of the many good restaurants, bought a supply of 
groceries and meats, had the gas tank filled and oil replenished, and headed 




ONE encounters distant snow capped ranges, 
but more majestic and unusual are the great 
glacial peaks, standing out alone overlooking the 
whole world. For miles and miles, visible to the 
motorist among these peaks, are Livingston, 
Rainier, St. Helens, Adams, Hood and ]\It. Shasta. 
The glory of the changing shadows and colors on 
these great sentinels is beyond description. 



south to tlie Gardiner entnuice of the Park. 

Ahiiost from tlie time you leave Liv- 
ingston you begin a gradual ascent, and 
about eight miles from the city pass be- 
tween frowning- walls that guard the 
entrance to tlie valley of the Yellowstone 
that leads directly to the little town of 
Gardiner. 

Gardiner Station of the Northern 
Pacific Railway, is within a stone's throw 
of the entrance; and the Yellowstone Park 
Transportation Company operates a line of 
automobile stages to all points within the 
Park, for the benefit of those who prefer 
to travel by rail instead of driving their 
own cars. 

At the entrance, we drove under an 
imposing- stone arch erected by the gov- 
ernment in 1903 and dedicated by Presi- 
dent Roosevelt. An inscription on this 
arch reads, "Yellowstone National Park, 
Mai'ch 1, 1872, for the Benefit and Enjoyment of the People." 

Just inside we were stopped by the guards who collected an entrance 
fee of $7.50, took our gun and sealed it, passed our dog, but told us to 
keep him tied up so he would not kill a bear, and turned us loose. 




ALONG THE YELLOWSTONE 



Created by Act of Congress, 



A WILD ANIMAL REFUGE 

The Yellowstone National Park is perhaps the largest and certainly 
the most successful wild-animal refuge in the world. For this reason it 
offers an exceptional field for nature study. 

The increase in the number of wild animals in the Park is very notice- 
able; this because of the cai'eful protection aft'orded them. Hunting- is 
prohibited, except with a camera, and this is encouraged. Besides many 
bears and buffaloes, there are antelope, mountain sheep, whitetail and mule 
deer, and elk. These 
animals are harmless 
when no attempt is 
made to annoy or in- 
terfere with the m. 
They may not always 
be seen by the visi- 
tors in the automo- 
biles which travel the 
main high-ways daily 
d u r i n g the season, 
but the quiet watcher 
on the near-by trails 
may often see deer 
and bear and elk and 
antelope, and he may 
even see mountain gardiner station, n. p. r. k. 




wax fat 
tlie eaii 
til em. 



slieep, moose, and 
buffalo by journey- 
ing on foot or by 
lorseback into 
their retreats. 

The summer 
season in the Park 
is the vacation 
period for bears. 
Morning- and even- 
ing a few of the 
many bears in the 
Park frequent the 
vicinity of the ho- 
tels and camps and 
and sleek upon the refuse. Watching these bears feed is one of 
y evening diversions. Occasionally a grizzly may be seen among 




BEAKS IN YELLOWSTONE 



Only twenty-five buffalo had been left by hunters when protection 
laws were passed in 1896. These have increased now to about 600. They 
are in two herds. The larger, miscalled the "tame herd," because it is 
somewhat under control by the rangers, lives in the upper Lamar Valley, 
where visitors may easily find it. Approach is over a good motor road. 
During the summer tourist season, a few of these are driven into pasture 
at Mammoth Hot Springs so as to be visible to the tourists. The so-called 
wild herd roams the wilderness round about Yellowstone Lake. 

Some are to be seen around the southeast arm of Yellowstone Lake 
and on Hell-roaring Creek. Occasionally one or more ma.v be seen by 
tourists near tlie main road of the Park, far from their favorite haunts. By 
far the larger number are to be found in the Beckler River country in the 
southwest corner of the Park. 

The beaver, once so important a part of animal life in the West, are 
also rapidly increasing. Almost every stream shows signs of their pres- 
ence. Near Tower Fall there are several colonies ; the ponds are easily seen 
by tourists who visit the locality. There are also some beside the Tower 
Fall road, near Mammoth Hot Springs, just south of the crossing of 
Lava Creek. 

Of birds there are between 1.50 and 200 species — geese, ducks, pelicans, 
gulls, eagles, hawks, owls, night hawks, ravens. Rocky Mountain jays, 
tanagers, bluebirds, water ouzels, blackbirds, meadow larks, robins, and 
others. 

Tourists who go into Yellowstone Park with their own camping outfit, 
need have no fear of animals except bears, who have a habit of coming to 
the camps at night when all is still, snooping around trying to find sugar 
and bacon. Nearly everyone is careful to put those things where the bears 
will not be apt to locate them. However, one chap who thought he was 
wise, hung his supply on the limb of a tree higii from the ground. The 
bears came, and through sense of smell found it, and being unable to reach 
it, one of them climbed the tree and shook it down. 



Visitors are cautioned not to feed tlie bears, but some of tliem disobey 
this rule, and because of it, there have been a number of serious accidents. 

The elevation at Gardiner is 5,400 feet, but at Mammoth Hot Springs, 
in four and a half miles the elevation has increased 875 feet, making a total 
height of 6,275 feet at that point. However as the road is good, the climb 
is made without undue effort. 

And now the sights begin. Odd, beautiful, startling things, unfold 
tliemselves to view as you roll along ovei' the splendid roads. 

THE TERRACED MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS 

At Mammoth Hot Springs, in the north of the Park, hot waters heavily 
charged with lime have built up tier upon tier of white terraces which the 
algae-laden waters color faint tints of red, yellow, blue, and pink. Each 
terrace carries basins, elaborately carved and fretted, whicii, when their 
springs run di'y, merge into the great hills of white formation, while new 
basins form upon their edges. These terraces engulf trees. They form an 
astonishing spectacle. 

Pulpit, Jupiter, Cleopatra, and Hymen terraces, Orange Spring, the 
White Elephant, Angel Terrace, and the Devil's Kitchen are the most 
important attractions. Liberty Cap, a monument-like shaft, was perhaps 
once embodied in a terrace ; because it was of harder rock-like material, the 
erosion which washed away its surrounding formation has left it standing. 
A similar but smaller shaft near-by is known as the Giant's Thumb. 

There are rides, walks, and drives about the springs. The mouth of 
Boiling Kiver, and the canyon and Osprey Fall of the Middle Gardiner 
River behind Bunsen Peak, are all within walking distance; they also can 
be reached by horseback or by automobile. 

The general panorama at Mammoth Hot Springs is one of the most 
striking in the Park. The steaming, tinted terraces and Fort Yellowstone 
near-by; the long, palisaded escaiiDment of Mount Everts to the east; the 
dominating presence of Bunsen Peak to the south, with the Gardiner Can- 
yon and the distant elevations of the Mount \^'ashburn group; the rugged 
slopes of Terrace Mountain to the west, and the distant peaks of the Snowy 
Range to the north — all together form a surrounding landscape of wonder- 
ful beauty and contrast. 

After leaving Mammoth Hot Springs, we continued to climb, up 
tlirough Hoodoo Rocks, Silver Gate, Golden Gate, and past all sorts of 
natural phenomenon, and before we realized it, were on a great plateau high 
up among snow-covered peaks. 

A storm is brewing. It got quite cold, \^'e closed the car and put on 
lieavy coats. The peaks became obscured by clouds. Rain overtook us, but 
on we went, mile after mile over comparatively level roads, high up in the 
mountains, with flashes of lightning and peals of thunder all around us. 

That night we camped way up there among the peaks, and as we lay 
awake, too cold to sleep, we heard the cry of a timber wolf, and he was not 
far away. 

Early the next day, after a drive through virgin pine forests, we came 
in sight of clouds of steam emerging from crevices in the earth. Hot 
springs and geysers. 




OLD FAITHFUL GEYSER 
Never Disappoints Visitors 

Every sixty to eighty minutes it hurls a million 
and a half gallons of water high in the air 




UPPER GEYSER HASIN 



\MIERE GEYSERS 
FROLIC 

Nature has lav- 
ished liev most extra- 
ordinary gifts on tiie 
region of the Yellow- 
stone. Here are wild 
woodland, carpeted 
with vari-colored wild 
Howers, crystal rivers, 
thundering cataracts, 
gorgeous canyons, 
sparkling cascades, 
birds and animals, 
small and large; but of 
all its wonders none is so unusual, so startling, so weird, as the geysers. 
Once seen, the memory and mystery of them will forever linger. The 
Yellowstone geysers are renowned the woild over, because of their size, 
power, number, and variety of action. 

The more prominent geysers are confined to three basins, lying near 
each other in the middle west zone. Other hot water manifestations occur 
in all parts of the Park. Marvelously-colored hot springs, mud volcanoes, 
and other strange phenomena are freciuent. The geysers exhibit a large 
variety of character and action. xMany, like Old Faithful, spout at more oi' 
less regular intervals; some of the other large ones play at irregular inter- 
vals of days, weeks, or months; some small ones play every few minutes. 
Some burst upward with immense power; others hurl streams at angles or 
bubble and foam. 

The Lone Star Geyser, just oil the road from Upper Basin to ThumI), 
has one of tiie most beautiful cdiies. It plays sixty feet in the air for ten 
minutes, at intervals of f()rt\' minutes. 

Yellowstone has more geysers than all the rest of the world. Some are 
literal volcanoes of water. To translate this into volume we will use 
Old Faithful as an example. According to observations made by the 
United States Geological Sui'vey, this most famous of all geysers hurls in 
the air every sixty-five to eighty minutes a million and a half gallons of 
water, or 33,22.5, ()()() gallons a day. This would supply a city of oO(),0()() 
inhabitants. 

There is a very large, splendidly e<|uipped auto tourists' camp ground 
just back of the hotel at Old Faithful, and you can spend several enjoyable 
days there. 

From Old Faithful we went to Yellowstone Lake, which with one excep- 
tion, Lake Titicaca, in Peru, is the largest in the world at its elevation of 
7,741 feet. It has a shore line one hundred miles long, and is a beautiful 
sheet of ice cold water. Its sole outlet is the Yellowstone River; thus it is a 
never-failing source of supply for one of the Missouri's greatest tributaries. 




p^. 



Old Faithful" 




If Bee HrvE Geyser. 




Jewel Geyser 




A GLIMPSE OF GRAND CANYON AND 
GREAT FALLS 



WELL STOCKED FISHING 
GROUNDS 

In 1889 the United States 
Fish Commission began the dis- 
tribution of fish in tlie Park 
waters. In recent years there has 
been an annual distribution aggre- 
gating' hundreds of thousands of 
trout, so that most of the lakes 
and streams in wliicli fisli can 
thrive are now stocked witli one 
or more varieties. Approximately 
10,000,000 young fish have been 
placed in Park waters. These 
comprise grayling and Rocky Mountain whitefish; black spotted or native 
trout; rainbow, Loch Leven, lake, eastern brook, and Von Behr, or bi'own, 
trout. 

Practically all the waters within easy distance of the Park hotels and 
camps are kept fairly-well stocked with fish, and many of the more remote 
streams and lakes are even better supplied owing to their being less visited 
by anglers. 

Visitors who do not take their own fishing equipment can supply tiiem- 
selves at any of the iiotels or camps upon payment of a small rental. 

Yellowstone is a paradise for the expert angler. Almost any of a 
hundred streams can be successfully whipped by an adept, while an amateur 
can catch lake trout from Fisiiing Bridge which spans the River just a 
short distance from where the Lake empties into it. The current is very 
strong, the water ice cold, and filled with trout. You can stand on the 
bridge and see thousands of them. Fish if you like. Every fisherman is 
allowed ten fish each day, but they must be caught with hook and line, 
and be over eiglit inches in lengtii. No license is required. 

As hunting and poaching is prohibited, and the animals — with the 
exception of Coyotes and JMountain Lions — are protected, there are thou- 
sands upon thousands roaming at will all over the Pai'k. 

From tlie Lake we went to the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, and 
if there was only one thing to be seen, and that the Canyon, it would be 
worth the trip. 

Go to Artist's Point, climb the stairs to the lookout platform, and drink 
in the wonderous beauty spread at your feet. No artist can paint, no pen 
describe, what God through the ages has prepared for you to look upon. 

Rudyard Kipling wrote: "All that I can say is that without warning 
or preparation I looked into gulf 1,200 feet deep, with eagles and fish-hawks 
circling far below. And the sides of that gulf were one wild welter of color 
— crimson, emerald, cobalt, ochre, amber, honey splashed with port wine, 
snow-white, vermilion, lemon and silver-grey in wide washes. The sides 
did not fall sheer, but were graven by time and water and air into mon- 
strous heads of kings, dead chiefs — men and women of the old time. So 



far below tluit no sound of strife could reach us, the Yellowstone Riven ran, 
a finger-wide strip of jade green. The sunlight took those wondrous walls 
and gave fresh hues to those that Nature had already laid there. 

"Evening crept through the pines that shadowed us, but the full glory 
of the day flamed in that canyon as we went out veiy cautiously to a jutting 
piece of rock — blood-red or pink it was — that luing the deepest of all." 

The famous artist iMoran said: "Its beautiful tints are beyond tiie 
reach of human art." And General Sherman, referring to Moran's painting 
of the canyon, added: "The painting by Moran in the Capitol is good, but 
painting and words are unequal to the subject." 

Folsom, connected with the private expedition of '69, and who first 
vvi-ote of the can\on, said: "Language is entirely inadequate to convey a 
just conception of the awful grandeur and sublimity of this most beautiful 
of Nature's handiwork." 

The canyon is vast. A cross-section in the largest part measures 2,000 
feet at the top and 200 feet at the bottom, with 1,200 feet of depth. The 
Upper Fall is 109 feet, the Lower or Great Fall, 308 feet in height. The 
canyon and Lower Fall — a composite picture — are seen to the best ad- 
vantage from Artist Point and Inspiration Point. 

Upon leaving the canyon the trouist has tlie choice of two routes if 
returning to the Gardiner entrance. One, the Canyon Road, runs west to 
Norris Geyser Basin and thence north to the entrance. The other, the 
Chittenden Road runs north to Dunraven Pass, where it branches. The one 
to the left goes through the Pass and is the shorter more direct route 
without tiie heagy grades of the road to the right which takes you up and 
over Mt. Washburn. If you have the nerve and a fairly good car, by all 
means take the latter, as the wonderful view from an altitude of 10,388 
feet, will more than repay for the effort. 

After a number of never to be forgotten days spent in the Park, w^e 
headed for the Gardiner entrance and Livingston, to again take the trail 
tiiat leads into the land of the "Setting Sun." 

This year the road from Livingston to Gardiner was very bad in some 
places, and the Livingston Chamber of Commerce collected a fund to put 
it in first class condition for the summer of 1922, so remember this motor- 
ists, the business men of Livingston ai'e doing everything in their power 
to make your trip a pleasant one, and you siiould reciprocate by purchasing 
your supplies in their city. 

That the Livingston-Gardiner Road is the most popular entrance to the 
Park was proven by the State Higlnvay Commission's check of traffic last 
summer. In one day 1295 cars passed a given point. 

The government should hard-surface and maintain this principal artery 
to our National Wonderland. 

That night we spent in Livingston, and started early the following- 
morning for Butte, passing through Bozeman and Three Forks. At the 
latter place we wei-e advised to leave the Yellowstone Ti'ail, and take a new 
road to Whitehall that would siiorten the distance thirteen miles. This is 
called the White route and was not very well marked, but we managed to 
keep on it, and after a long hard climb, began a descent. The grade was a 





TENS OK THOUSANDS OF LITTLE LAKES ARE TRIBUTARY 
TO THE NATIONAL PARKS HIGHWAY 



steep one, and soon we were on a road just wide enough for one car, with 
precipitous walls rising- higlier and higlier on both sides. On we went, 

DOWN 

DOWN 

DOWN 

apparently into tlie bowels of the eartli. By this time it was getting late. 
The sun was low and the deeper we went into the canyon the darker it 
grew. I admit it was a little spooky. A strange road just wide enough for 
one car, with an occasional poclcet hewn from the rocky wall as a passing 
point. Now there is a rushing, roaring stream on one side of the narrow 
road; it is quite dark, the lights are burning, the horn sounding at intervals 
of a few seconds, and as we slip around curve after curve, always on the 
descent, with the precipitous walls rising higher and higher, the stream 
roaring louder and louder, we shivered a little, and wondered if we were 
ever going to reach the bottom. But at last it grew lighter, and with a 
sigh of relief, we drove into the open, just as the sun sank to rest beyond a 
distant mountain. We were told this was Boulder Canyon, and advise all 
tourists to take this route; but do it in daylight, ^^'e stopped at Whitehall 
that night, and got an early start for Butte the next morning. This was to 
be a drive that I had worried about for a long time. Several motorists had 
told me the climb to the Continental Divide — elevation 6,950 feet was a 
hard one, and the hill leading down into Butte was so steep and bad I would 
have to engage a man familiar with it to pilot my car. Naturally, not being 
a seasoned mountain driver I was worried, and wondered what I was "up 
against." but found that the incline on the east of the divide was a long, 
gradual one, with just an occasional steep grade. When we arrived at the 
top, I shifted to low year and started for the bottom of the hill. That was 
pretty slow, so I changed to second. About half way down is a sign that 
reads, "Change to low gear." There I stopped, made the change, and 
continued the descent. A little further along we came to the iron work of 
a big Winton touring car that had been destroyed by fire; all that remained 
to tell the tale of the tragedy of the day before. I understand the driver of 
this car, like some others who have attempted to negotiate this hill depend- 
ing on brakes instead of compression, met with disaster. Just to prove to 
my own satisfaction, that any careful driver can descend this hill without 
mishap, I brought the car to a complete stop several times on the way 
down. The divide is about eighteen miles east of Butte, and if you are 
traveling east, is a steep climb to the top; but all kinds of cars make it 
without trouble, so don't let anyone tell you it is impossible, or that you 
have to engage a man to drive your car. 

Anyhow Mr. Motorist by the time you reach Butte going in either 
direction, you will liave had mountain driving experience enough so that a 
little think like the Continental Divide or the Camel's Hump they never 
fail to tell you about, won't worry you in the least. 

One of the bug-a-boos nearly every motorist will throw at you is the 
"Camel's Hump," between St. Regis and Cabin City, about thirty-five miles 
east of the Idaho line. Well it is some hump I admit, but the road leading 
up and down is a very good one, and you need not worry about it. I was 
rather amused when we went over the "Hump." We reached the top and 
had started down the western slope without knowing we had accomplished 




PICTURES TAKEN IN OUR NATIONAL PARKS 
RAINIER. GLACIER. " OLD FAITHFUL " GEYSER. YELLOWSTONE. CRATER LAKE 



tlie wonderful feat, \\hen we met a chap who was doing some fixng on his 
car, and I asked liim where tlie "Hump" was. He looked at me rather sus- 
piciously and answered. "H you just came over it." 

There are a lot of other experiences you will liave had by this time 
also. For example; you may liave been high up on a shelf road; one of 
tliose I'oads cut in the side of a mountain. It starts on terra firma, but in 
a short time you are away up among the clouds, a sheer mountain wall tow- 
ering over you on one side, and — a drop of hundreds of feet — on the other. 
Tliis road may be just wide enough for one car, perhaps there are no logs 
or masonry to prevent you driving into the chasm ; and you are keyed up 
to a high pitch. With both feet on the pedals, a deatli grip on the wheel, 
you are swinging in and out around slicn't, sharp curves, and suddenly on 
a jutting i-ock that obscures the road ahead, you see a sign that reads, 
'•PliEPAKE TO MEET THY GOD" or "DEATH AWAITS YOU JUST 
AROUND THE CORNER." Well, I don't care how nervy you are, your 
first experience of this kind will send a shiver up your spine, and you 
proceed with caution. 

After dinner at Butte, we drove to Deer Lodge and camped for tlie 
night. This was the best camp ground we have stopped at for a long time. 
Don't overlook it. 

Tlie following nigiit was spent at Missoula. There .\'ou will find a 
splendid camp ground a short distance out of town, in a magnificent pine 
forest. 

Montana is a big state. It is about eigiit hundred miles drive to cross 
it, and the larger share of the road is very bad. However, when you size up 
the country through which the trail passes, you will readily understand 
the reason. They told me tiiey had not had a crop for four years, and many 
homes are deserted. There are no funds to keep up good roads. 

We started from Missoula txpecting to reacli Wallace, Idaho, a distance 
of only one hundred and twenty-nine miles that day, but owing to bad roads 
and tire trouble, covered just sixty-three miles, and stopped in Superior 
that night, and were lucky to make Mullan, Idaho, fifty-nine miles the 
following day. The last ten miles of Montana road, from Saltese to Sum- 
mit, the top of the Divide and on the Montana and Idaho line, was bad, and 
tlie grade very steep. Just before we reached the top, we passed a man 
with a team, who gives motorists a pull up the last stretch for $2.00. ^^"e 
did not need his help, but were told many others do. 

At the top of the divide we entered Idaho on a splendid road, and 
immediately started down a steep grade. If you should make this trip, 
about two city blocks from the summit you will come to a hair-pin turn. 
Don't attempt to inake it without stopping and backing the car. Many a 
fellow has, to his sorrow. Go down slowly. STOP! Back the car! Play 
safe ! 

The road in Idaho was much better than any we had covered for a long 
time, but after passing through Wallace, Kellog, and the Fourth of July 
Canyon, with Couer d'Alene aljout twenty miles ahead, we came to a long, 
winding, steep, shelf road, cut in the side of a mountain. At first the road 



rises gTadually, then ratlier abruptly. It is wide enougii for two cars, but 
most of tlie outside is unguarded. Going west the mountain wall was at the 
right, and the cars we met had to take the outside, and while I was sorry 
for the other fellow, I was glad for myself. In spite of all the experience 1 
liad had crossing the Rockies, it was a ticklish job. The road kept rising, 
it seemed as though we would never reach the summit. To our riglit the 
mountain wall; to the left Lake Couer d'Alene spread at our feet for miles. 
1 am sure to a man in a boat our auto must have looked like a tly, away up 
there on the side of that mountain. At last we reached the top, took a turn 
to the right, congratulated ourselves, and began the descent; and in a short 
time arrived at the bottom, only to begin climbing another mountain that 
was higher than the first. Again the lake lay shimmering at our feet. Oh ! 
what a sight. But brother if you want to enjoy that wonderful scene, do 
as 1 did, STOP THE CAR! Otherwise keep your eyes glued to the road. 
Don't look down ! 

After reaching the summit of the second mountain, we were soon in 
Coure d'Alene, and would have stopped over night in this pretty little place, 
but mail awaited us in Spokane, only thirty-four miles away, so we con- 
tinued our journay to the metropolis of the Inland Empire; the last 
seventeen miles over a fine cement road called "The Apple Way." 

Spokane has one of the finest and most complete camp grounds we 
have found on the entire ti'ip, and it was filled to overflowing with a con- 
glomerate, hetrogeneous, cosmopolitan crowd. All kinds of cars from the 
palatial limousine with the back of tlie front seat cut and hinged so it can 
be let down to make a bed ; to the lowly flivver that made racket enough to 
raise the dead, were there. Some of these cars, particularly the flivvers, 
carry enormous loads. Grips, trunks, tents, cooking utensils, bedclothes 
and bed springs; piled and heaped upon every available inch of space; front, 
back and sides, with as many as six people on the inside. One family 
carried a goat so they could have fresh milk for the children. Is it any 
wonder that these poor little flivvers grunt and groan and rattle and squeak 
enough to raise the dead? You marvel how they stand up under the load 
and get anywhere. But they do. Sometimes you see tlie wife and children 
out behind helping the motor on an extra steep grade, but usually they 
reach the top and on they go. 

It was on this ground 
we met Mr. and Mrs. Homer 
Arter. Mr. Arter is the 
owner of a very large citrus 
ranch in Cuba, and being a 
native of Ohio, decided to 
"See America First" and by 
auto. So he came over to 
Florida and purchased a 
Reo Speed Wagon chasis 
and had a "real regular 
house" body made for it. 
He did not have to put up 
and take down a tent every 




mi;, .'vrter's car 



day. They could stop at the side of tlie road anywhere or drive onto tlie 
lot, have supper, and go to bed in a few minutes. And they were surely 
"Seeing- America" when we left them in California to return east. 

We liked Spokane so well we stayed ten days, instead of one, as we 
first intended. Provisions were much cheaper in this city, than at iiome or 
anywhere along the road. Stores and markets filled to overHow with finest 
fruits and vegetables, meats and sea foods, at, to us, extremely low prices. 
Strawberries that had disappeared from the eastern markets long before, 
were very fine and plentiful, and selling at 2.5c per quart. Boiling beef 
at 10c, and good steak at 20c to 2.5c. Salmon and halibut steaks at 17c per 
pound, and everytiiing else at proportionate prices. It seemed like a poor 
man's paradise. 

Leaving Spokane, we continued west over the Sunset Highway to 
Hartline. Wilson Creek, Quincy and Vantage Ferry to Ellensburg. This is 
over the National Parks Highway and considerable shorter than the 
Yellowstone Trail which leads south to \^'alla \A'alla and from there to 
Ellensburg. At this point the two great trails again converge and continue 
west through Cle Elum and Snoqualmie Pass to Seattle. 

Tlie roads across the entire state are what may be called good. Of 
course tliei-e are stretches here and there that are bad, but on the whole 
you will find little to complain about. 

1 have seen many beautiful sights from the front seat of an automo- 
bile, but 1 do not recall anything more beautiful and restful than that 
wonderful ride through Snoqualmie Pass. Mile after mile of road as smooth 
as a fioor, traversing the Snoqualmie National Forest Reserve, to an eleva- 
tion of 3,010 feet, up and down grades that are hardly noticeable, through 
magnificent natural forest, ablaze with gorgeous bloom backed by a setting 
of marvelous verdure, is something I shall never forget; and neither will 
you, if you ever drive through it. 

We are now over the Rockies and the Cascade Mountains, and while 
there are many others in the Coast Range to cross before we arrive at th-e 
end of our journey, they will not be so high nor dangerous. 

For days past, a constant reminder of the danger of mountain touring- 
has been thrust upon us. Enterprising garage men have placed signs along 
the road telling you about their wreck cars, what they can do, and how to 
get them in case of need. Mighty comforting perhaps ; but disquieting also. 
It keeps you keyed up to a high pitch, and incessantly wondering — what 
next. 

Seattle, "The Seaport of Success." Thirty-five years ago a little 
frontier town of four thousand inhabitants; today a virile, progressive city 
of three hundred and fifty thousand souls. Located on one of the finest 
harbors in the world, clustering about its lakes, and on its mountains, with 
pine forests and snow-capped peaks for a back-ground. I don't wonder at 
its growth, past, present and future. Splendid schools, office buildings, and 
stores. JMarkets filled to overflowing with delicious fruits and vegetables, 
meats and sea foods that will make your mouth water, and everything at 
prices within the reach ot all. Seattle has a well located camp ground, but 
this year lacked some comforts that I was told will be provided for the 
summer of 1922. 

At Seattle we turned south and started on our long journey of 1,652 




H 

.J 
H 
H 
< 



miles to Los Angeles, California. 




Tacoma is the first city of any 
consequence and is 
reached over a 
splendid pavement. 
This summer the 
city of Tacoma had 
no camp ground, 
but at South Ta- 
coma, a drive of six 
miles, we found 
one of the nicest, 
most complete 
camp grounds on 
wliole trip. 

Tacoma adver- 
tises "A S n o w- 
Capped Mountain 
in its Dooryard." 
SEATTLE WeW. that is true, 

figuratively speak- 
ing, for the great and wonderful Mt. Rainier is but three hours' drive from 
the center of the city. Tacoma people don't call it Mt. Rainier, they still 
stick to tlie old original Indian name of Tacoma; meaning, "The God of 
Mountains." 

The distance to the mountain is about seventy miles. Approximately 
one-third over splendid pavement, and the balance over gravel and dirt 
that was fairly good going. 

The morning we started for the mountain, tiiere was a thick haze and 
nothing could be seen of it for the first ten miles; but all at once there 
burst into view a marvelous sight. High up in the air there loomed a 
tremendous mass of snow and ice that seemed only a few miles away, but 
in reality was at least fifty in a straight line. On we went with this 
monster mountain always in view, till at last we drove up to the entrance 
of Rainier National Park. There we paid an admission fee of $2.50 for 
the auto and passengers. This is the only mountain in the world reached 
to line of eternal snows by an automobile highway. At the gate we began 
climbing a modest incline on a fairly good road that took us through 
wonderful forests of fir, cedar and hemlock, and across mountain torrents 
fed by over 32,000 acres of ice fields. The distance from the gate to 
Paradise Valley is twenty miles. The first twelve miles to Nisqually 
Glacier is a two-way road but from the Glacier to the Valley the road is 
,iust wide enough for one car. and traff'ic is permitted on a one-way schedule 
only. Automobiles leave the Glacier ascending, and Paradise Valley 
descending, on each hour, 8:00 A. M. to 7:00 P. M. inclusive, passing at 
Narada Falls on each half-hour. 

The trip up the one-way road to Paradise Valley is a "corker," but 
perfectly safe for a careful driver. The road is, for the most part, dug out 
of the side of the mountain, the grade quite steep in some places. Pre- 




IN PARADISE VALLEY 



cipitous walls on one side, a 
deep chasm on the other. 
Most of the outside is 
guarded by a low rock wall. 
But DON'T LOOK DOWN ! 
it is dangerous business. 
My! what a sight. Away 
up there among the clouds. 
Wonderful ! Amazing ! Some 
job to build those roads, and 
when you consider the sea- 
son is only a little over two 
months in length, you mar- 
vel they are so good. 



Owing to the splendid work of the engineers, almost the entire distance 
from the gate to Paradise Valley can be made without shifting the gears 
from high. 

There are plenty of camping places in the Park, even away up in the 
Valley close to the ice and snow, but that was too cold for us. 

The Mountain has a height of 14,408 feet, and in its sides are twenty- 
eight great glaciers that are the source of seventeen large rivers. 

Leaving Mt. Rainier, we started for Portland, and were told by several 
people we could cut off about fifty miles by going from Elbe through 
Morton and pick up the Pacific Highway at tlie small town of Toledo. Wasli. 
We took their advice, and drove through some of tlie finest forest we have 
even seen, over splendid gravel and tlie worst plank and corduroy roads that 
were ever built, and got lost in a deep wood witli just a faint trail to follow, 
and were about to give up and retrace our way, when an old Indian on 
horse-back came along and guided us to the Highway, ^^'hile this part of 
the trip was a beautiful one, I would advise all tourists to go back toward 
Tacoma even if it is much fartlier. 

A very interesting feature of this side-trip, was mile after mile of 
road that was clogged witii wild blackberry bushes filled with blossoms, 
and green and ripe berries. Thousands upon tliousands of bushels of 
delicious fruit ; yours for the picking. 

We located the Pacific Highway about two miles north of Toledo, and 
proceeded to Portland, Oregon. 

Portland. "The City of Roses" and Bungalows. Located at the junction 
of two important rivers, backed by the scenic grandeur of the Cascade 
Mountains with tlieir snow-capped peaks, and the timbered area of tlie 
Coast Range, it stands in a class by itself. From this city, west to the 
Pacific and east to Central Oregon, reaches America's newest and most 
scenic highway for the motorist, the Columbia River Highway. All the 
beauties of the Alps, the Rhine and Southern Italy, combined with the wild 
grandeur of the American Rockies will be found on this drive. Tliis road 
from a scenic and engineering standpoint is without a doubt the most 
remarkable in the United States if not the wliole world. It is smooth as 
a floor, nowhere less than twenty-four feet in width, and much wider at 
the curves, and has a maximum grade of five per cent. It is absolutely safe 



the entire 1 e n g t h, 
even where hanging- 
to the face of the 
cliff hundreds of feet 
above the waters of 
the magnificent Col- 
umbia. 

Don't overlook 
this trip under any 
circumstances. 

Leaving Portland 
we journeyed south 
through Oregon over 
splendid roads, some 
of them paved as fine 
as a boulevard ; pass- 
ing through Salem, 
Albany, Eugene, 
Roseburg and Grant's 
Pass. From Grant's 
Pass through Med- 
ford and Ashland to 
the California line is 
:me of the finest pave- 
ni e n t s possible to 
build, and thru the 
mountains is remark- 
able from an engi- 
neering standpoint. 

Tliere are plenty 
of good camping grounds all along the route, the one in Ashland is espe- 
cially well equipped. 

As we entered Califoi'nia, a big bulletin at the side of the road in- 
formed us the law reciuired all visiting motorists to register within twenty- 
four liours. As soon as we arrived at Sacramento I called at the office of 
the i\lotor Vehicle Department, and secured a permit allowing me three 
months' time as a tourist; also an operator's license, which every person 
that drives a car in California must have. 

Shortly after crossing the state line, Mt. Shasta with its snow-covered 
crest flashes into view, and the road takes you right up to and around the 
base. It is not so spectacular as Mt. Rainier. Not so much snow. No 
wonderful forests, and no automobile roads. 

From the time we reached the California line to within a short distance 
of Sacramento the roads were not nearly as good as those through 
Oi'egon. 




CALIFORNIA 

A gorgeous land, full of life and color; waters flowing against formid- 
able cliffs; rivers and cataracts that boom and roar as they take great leaps 
over sheer mountain precipices ; crystal clear lakes in valley and mountain ; 
spicy forests of giant trees spreading their protecting arms over the 
shelters of man and the whole colorful land beribboned with shining- 
highways. 

The hub of this wonderland is historic Sacramento, around whose early 
history and the discovery of gold, has been written the romance of Cali- 
fornia. The whole enchanting region is reached over the system of roads 
radiating from the Capital City and the route to much of the forest and 
lake region in the high Sierras, will take you over paved highways which 
mark the once dim trails of the "Forty-Niners." 

To see with one's own eyes the places made famous during the earl\- 
f'ays of California — the first settlement of the white man, the Spanish 
Missions, the wild mining towns of the old gold days, the entrancing- 
mountain scenery and the alluring climate of California — is in the heart 
of every person who plans a trip to the Golden ^^'est. 

Sacramento lias a good camp ground. Stop over there, and beginning 
at Sutter Fort enjoy a five-hour auto drive through orange groves, from 
which come the earliest of California's citrus fruit, past gigantic gold 
dredgers separating the precious metal from the soil twenty-four hours of 
tile day, and then on through the old mining towns of Folsom, Shingle 
Springs and Placerville to Coloma, where gold was discovered; returning 
through Auburn and a wonderful fruit district. All along the way is 
presented an endless panorama of beautiful views including the picturesque 
American River. 

Over the streets .\'our auto travels today, a few years ago traveled the 
red-shirted miner, the patient burro, and the powerful ox team, but they 
traveled in dust or mud to tlieir ankles, and the miner's bed was under the 
nearest tree at sundown. 

The "Days of Old, the Days of Gold," are wrapped up in the iiistory of 
this city. At Coloma, near here, on January 24th, 1848, the first gold 
nugget was found. This event startled the whole civilized world, and the 
rush began. 

From all points they came, the rich, the poor, the saint and the sinner. 
But one thought pervaded the whole excited, irresponsible, gold-maddened 
mob, "Gold, Gold! then back to home and the kiddies!" Miners brought 
their nuggets to town in little salt sacks, yeast cans or old socks. 

Gainbling houses, grog shops and dance halls, flourished by scores. 
The gold hysteria knew no law nor restraint in that first mad rush. Towns 
became known and named from their most prominent vices or crimes. 
Whiskey Diggings, Port Wine, Slug Gulch. You Bet, and ^Vild Yankee 
Diggins told their own story. One place became so prosperous and lawless 
that they hung law breakers first singly, then in pairs; so they named the 
settlement Ilangtown, now Placerville. 

In Sacramento by 1850 the great rush was at its height. Hotels, of 
rough boards, canvas and sheet iron, were inadequate to handle the cro-w'ds. 
Dance halls kept open twenty-four hours a day. 



-4(1- 



Ill July tlie city stopped to take breath. A City Council was formed, a 
constitution for local government adopted. Tlie lawless element fought 
every attempt to bring order out of chaos. Time and the persistent work 
of the better class eventually won out and Sacramento emerged from its 
frontier clothes and became a real city with all of a real city's advantages. 



FISHING 

Up to this point, with the exception of the 
Dakotas and a part of Montana, the man who likes 
to fish will find plenty of opportunity to test his skill. 

Mountain streams and lakes are well stocked 
with trout and other varieties of game fish, and rare 
sport awaits you. Every state requires a non-resi- 
dent to purchase a license, and it is not safe to cast 
a line without one. Game laws are very strict, and 
many sportsmen are heavily fined for taking fish 
that are undersized or out of season. 

It will pay you to secure a license and a copy of 
the law in each state before you try your luck. 

While we were in camp at Yreka, California, a 
tourist came in with three enormous salmon lashed 
on the foot-board of his car. 

He had speared them in a stream just outside of 
the town. Everyone in camp had all the fish they 
could eat that day. 

There is no fresh water fishing around Los 
Angeles, but a drive of fifteen or twenty miles will 
take you to the Ocean piers where there is plenty of 
sport every day in the year. 

From Sacramento we drove to Vallejo, where 
we shipped a distance of about thirty miles to San 
Francisco, at a cost of $3.30 for the auto and 97c for 
each passenger. This was the shortest and easiest 
way, as we would have had to ferry from Vallejo to 
Rodeo, drive thirty miles to Oakland and ferry from 
there to San Francisco, the cost is practically the 

same m i n u s the 
labor. 

San Francisco has 
no camp ground, but 
^ __ Oakland just across 
H^^atfsff the bay has one, and 
.\'ou can ferry across 
at a cost of .f 1.22 for 
the car and 8c for 
each passenger. 



SAN FRANCISCO 

SERENE, indifferent to Fate, thou sittest by the western gate," sang 
Bret Harte of San Francisco, the city "loved around the world and by 
its own people best of all." 

The beauty and grandeur of San Francisco's location have delighted 
every visitor that has ever had the good fortune to visit this great cos- 
mopolitan center. 

San t^'rancisco came into being a drowsy Spanish hamlet, fed on the 
intoxication of a gold rush, then developed by an adventurous commerce 
and a baronial agriculture. Compelled by the isolation from its home 
peoples to work out its own ethical and social standards, San Francisco 
has evolved an individuality and a versatility equal to any other city 
in the United States. 

A city built on the commanding heights overlooking the broad waters 
of its matchless harbor, San Francisco is declared to be approached in 
beauty of situation only by Constantinople and Rio de Janeiro. The city 
occupies the northern end of a peninsula, with the Pacific Ocean on the 
West and the Bay of San Francisco on the East, with the famed Golden 
Gate joining them. 

In all cosmopolitan America, there is no place more cosmopolitan, 
none more pronounced in its individuality. San Francisco is a world city. 
It is a truly American city, yet within its confines are sections of the cities 
of tile world. Here where the rugged spirit of the pioneer still survives, 
you may hear on the streets a medley of the tongues of the world. 

Different in everything — territory, climate and people. 

In speaking of San Francisco, the metropolitan area, or what is better 
known as (jreater San Francisco, is often referred to. The city itself is a 
consolidated city and county occupying 46V-) square miles. 

After the fire of 1906 several thousand people moved across the ba,\' 
to Alameda County. Here are the three cities of Oakland, Alameda and 
Berkeley, witli a combined population of 350,000. There are 60,000 people 
in Marin County to the north and San Mateo County to the south. These 
comprise the Greater San Francisco which exists today in ever\' form 
except politically. It is a community of well over one million people and 
would be the fifth largest city in the United States if it existed politically. 

The climate is one of San Francisco's biggest assets. Light overcoats 
and furs can be worn the year around, or belts and soft shirts can take 
their place — according to your constitution. Blizzards, hurricanes, tor- 
nadoes, floods, heat prostrations, and sunstroke are unknown. There are 
no long, cold winters with streets covered with snow, nor hot, sultry 
summers when living is insufferable. 

One's own personal comfort counts for a great deal in this life. When 
you can secure food which would be considered a luxury in most parts of 
tile world at reasonable prices, and comfort as well, then life is worth 
while. Daily shipments are received of fresh eggs, milk, butter, meat, 
fruit, fish, crabs, lobsters, oysters and poultry. These are not cold storage 



shipments but consignments fresli from source of supply less than a 
hundred miles away. 

The Golden Gate bids you welcome. 

After you have seen San Francisco and environs, before you start for 
the south, yo to Yosemite National Park. That great gash in the rock 
ribbed heigiits of the high Sierras, holds a lasting fascination for the 
tourish and traveler who has been so fortunate as to visit and behold its 
magnificence. 

Covering an area of more than 700, 000 acres at an altitude of from 
4,000 to 9,000 feet it embraces a region of sheer precipices, majestic peaks, 
thundering waters, giant trees and entrancing valleys. 

The witchery and grandeur of this National Playground is beyond 
description. If you have gazed upon its wonders, any mere description 
would sound flat, and if you have not witnessed the awe inspiring pan- 
orama which spreads before you, when passing the portals to this peaceful 
region, any attempt to detail its wonders would sound flowery. 

To appreciate this wonderland you must view the towering pinnacles 
and domes of rock ; the lacy waterfalls, winding rivers and Hower bedecked 
meadows ; the forest of giant Sequoias — the oldest living things. A visit 
to this sanctuary will prove an inspiration and make more hearty your 
affection and admiration for America. 

All of this glorious wilderness is in easy reach of every traveler. 
Good automobile roads enter the Yosemite Valley from both sides. Ever 
since the Park was opened to automobiles, an increasing number of vis- 
itors have come in their own cars. 

After seeing Yosemite you can take the central route through Fresno 
and Bakersfield; or tiie Coast route through San Jose, Salinas and Santa 
Barbara to Los Angeles. 



LOS ANGELES 

The "City of the Angels" — the wonder city. Probably the most 
talked of city in America. In .35 years Los Angeles jumped from 11,000 
to 7 00,000 in population and is still on the jump. 

You are sure to meet many people you know on the streets of this 
city. Thousands of tourists visit Los Angeles every year; many stay. 
Some return East for a short time, but the majority of those go back, and 
in a year they could not be pried loose. Why? Well, I don't know. I 
suppose it is a combination of a lot of things — chiefly climate. 

It is a nice place to live, especially if you enjoy balmy, sunshiny days 
and cool nights. If you are a motor enthusiast and enjoy touring, you 
will And splendid roads leading in every direction and plenty of places of 
interest to keep you busy for a long time. 

The cost of living is about on a par with the East. A fairly goocl 
apartment can be had for from $60.00 to iplOO.OO per month. Food, cloth- 
ing and furniture are perhaps a trifle cheapei' than in the East. 



Broadway in Los Angeles is in my opinion a far more attractive 
tliorofare than Broadway in New York. Traffic is dense and a serious 
problem and strange motorists sliould use extreme caution. 

Many people are under the impression that Los Angeles is a rich 
man's town. I can't see it in that light at all. Of course it is nice if you 
have money enough to live in comfort without working — that holds good 
in the East as well as the West — but it seemed to me that those who have 
a special training of some kind were employed if they cared to be. 

So many eastern people are talking about going to California to live 
that you often hear someone say, "There won't be room for all of them." 
Don't worry about that. Tiiere is plenty of room for millions more. 

Again, the average easterner imagines when he enters the state he 
will be in paradise, and is greatly disappointed; because there are plenty 
of barren hills and desert spots, as well as beautiful dream places. I was 
one of the disappointed ones, but hope to go back and reside there. 

When you arrive at Los Angeles, take a trip over the King's Highway 
to San Diego, and down into old Mexico. 




From Toledo, Oliio, to Los Angeles, California, with all side trips 
included, the speedometer registered 6,150 miles. Gasoline and oil cost 
$187.56. Wear and repairs on tires at least $275.00. Relining brakes and 
minor repairs, $31.00. Repainting car, $125.00. Depreciation at least 
$500.00. Making a total cost of transportation for myself, wife and child, 
$1,118.56. Camp equipage, including the trailer that I stored in St. Paul, 
cost $652.00. We were on the road just one hundred and twenty-five days 
from the time we left Toledo till we arrived in Los Angeles, but only 
eighty of them were driving days. The longest di'ive we made in one day 
was 180 miles, and there were days when we rolled up only 50 or 60 miles, 
and lucky to do that well. 

We spent a little over three months touring California. The weather 
was delightful up to December 17tli, when the rainy season set in at Los 
Angeles. We tiien decided to return East for the Holidays, so I turned 
my cai' over to tiie Automobile Club of Southern California for shipment, 
purchased tickets over the Union Pacific line and started for home. 

The entire trip of seven months and ten days, including railroad fares 
and freight ciiarges for tlie return of my automobile, cost $3,600.00, but 
it was a wonderful trip and money well spent. 

Of course it is cheapei' and easier to travel by rail; but you will not see 
tile things from a train that you can from your own car; neither will you 
have the pleasure of touring and camping. If you go by rail, and want a 
car in Caifornia — and nearly everyone does — either ship yours by freight 
in care of the Automobile Club in Los Angeles, or buy or rent a used one 
on your arrival, and sell it when through. 

The market is flooded with used cars and they can be had for $100. (tH 
up ; or you can rent a Ford for $3.00 per day. If you don't want a car of 
your own you can see all the territory around Los Angeles from the busses 
operated by real estate firms, with a chicken dinner thrown in; and all free. 

Up to the beginning of the great war Americans were more anxious 
to see Europe than their own country. So was I. But after covering- 
considerable of both by rail and motor, I believe there are more wonderful 
and beautiful things to be seen right here at home than abroad. 

Anyhow 
"SEE AMERICA FIRST" 

and 

See the Great Northwest, 

"The Wonderland of the World" 




VIEW IN YELLOWSTUNE PARK 




ROOSEVELT'S COTTAGE 




A TRIP TO THE 

Atlantic Coast 

FROM 

TOLEDO TO AND THROUGH 

THE 

NEW ENGLAND STATES 

AND FROM 

MAINE 

DOWN 

THE 

COAST 

TO 

FLORIDA 

WILL BE MADE BY 

MR. BETTIS 

DURING THE SUMMER OF 1922 



THE STORY WILL BE READY BY 
DECEMBER 



THEATRE and 

SCHOOL AUDITORIUM 

MANAGERS 



AUTOMOBILE and 

COMMERCE CLUBS 



MR. WM. CHARLES BETTIS 



IS NOW DELIVERING 



Illustrated Lectures 



ON HIS 



WESTERN TRIP 



STILL AND MOTION PICTURES 



EVERY MOTORIST IS INTERESTED 



FOR OPEN TIME AND TERMS 

WRITE HIM 



ADDRESS: TOLEDO, OHIO 



THIS IS THE 

PULLMAN BERTH OUTFIT 

CALLED 

"Jiffy Auto Tent" 



I purchased in 
Spokane, and used 
the remainder of the 
trip. 








Y: 



',4 



It is 9V2 X 7 feet, with 

a dressing or dining 

room 5'2 x 7 feet; 

and accommodates four people. 



I do not know the price this season ; but I do know, 
whatever it is, you will save several times on hotel bills. 




T?»^i^p^^ It is very compact 
and neat, and the 
whole thing packs 
in a box 12x12x48 
inches, and when 
touring is carried on 
the foot-board of 
the car. 



When in camp, the packing box opens up and makes 
a table. 

If you are interested, write 

F. O. BERG CO. &^ffi£LWi.sh 

For price, and Name of Dealer in your City. 



\hp^'^ 



^92^ 



ACROSS THE CONTINENT BY AUT'^^tmrttf 

THROUGH THE limmmm,mL.^°^^'^^SS 

"WONDERLAND OF THE WO i 



i 



OUR GREAT NORTt.'^'^ss'sra, 



THE 

HIGH 

ROCKIES 

AND THE 

CASCADE 

MOUNTAINS 



SPOKANE 

SEATTLE 

TACOMA 

MOUNT 

RAINIER 

PORTLAND 

THE 
COLUMBIA 

RIVER 

HIGHWAY 

DOWN INTO 

AND THROUGH 

WONDERFUL 

CALIFORNIA 

TO 
OLD MEXICO 



HOW TO MAKE 

THE TRIP 

BY 

AUTOMOBILE 
THINGS TO BE 

SEEN 

ADVENTURES 

AND 

CAMP 

GROUNDS 

ON 
THE WAY 



TOURING 

YELLOWSTONE PARK 




O^MMi 



